Nov. 3rd, 2002

Brian Grigsby

ASCENT Part II — The Goal is in sight. New Photos Below!

The only way any of us would ever get out of our tents was when the warming sun fell upon our campsite. As the sun crested the hills, the mountain came alive.

By 6:30 am the porters and guides showed up at our camp and began helping us make preparations for our summit attempt.

We split into 3 groups: Group I—Edmond, Marcus, David, Wilmer (our wonderful guide), Desiderio, German, and Milton. Group II—Nathalie, Brian, Andy, Monica, Lorena, Leon (our group guide) and Anibal. Group III consisted of Christian who offered to stay behind to clean up and organized loads to be carried back to the refuge after our climb.

The trek up the final few hundred meters was a very difficult endeavor. Every step was a decision to keep going toward the top. The oxygen level was less and less, and our steps became slower and slower but we kept going. At one point, my group (group II) was able to see Group I with Edmond leading the way. This was inspiring for all of us to keep up the pace.

Our trail turned into steep slopes with large and loose blocks, and each step had to be carefully taken. Again, seeing Edmond continuing ahead of us was our inspiration.
We finally met together as a whole team just below the summit at 1:30pm (except Christian, who found that organizing our midcamp was going to take longer than expected. We had a brief lunch and made the decision to go for the summit.

At 2pm, we began the last 100 meters toward the goal that all of us had been dreaming about for months. With the last few steps, Edmond made it to the summit first and set a new record for Licancabur. He became the oldest person to ever summit atop Licancabur! Also, as far as we know, Andy Hock became the first quadriplegic (see his previous update on the 24th of October) to make it to the top of Licancabur.

As a team we had finished the climb. The view was breathtaking (not to mention the winds and temperature!) This mountain, seen for hundreds of miles around, and the object of ancient Inca rituals was finally under our belts. We were all elated!

The view was spectacular. A 360 degree panorama of the Andes Mountains, volcanoes, and Atacama Desert. What a glorious view!

Once the pictures were taken and we all congratulated each other, we now had science to conduct under a very tight schedule. Upon discussion, and for safety measures, we decided that we had to descend no later than 3pm. This gave us an hour to do our science activities.
We were all very excited to be able to finally do science on this lake! No one had altitude sickness or any physical problems from the climb. We had made it as a team. (Christian summated as well about 20 minutes after our descent)

We kicked into high gear for an hour of “turbo science”. With the equipment that we had brought to the top, we set up UV plates, took water samples, filmed underwater footage, and took soil samples. At one point, Nathalie used a small rope to toss a water sample bottle into the lake. When she pulled it back, the water in the bottle was still liquid, but the rope was frozen!
After those tasks were done, we took a long last look at the beautiful summit lake. The wind was whipping around us, and we knew we had to get out of there for our own safety. But we knew we would be back next year for follow up science.

We ascended out of the crater, and down the slopes of the mountain. (and just in time!) The wind was picking up and the temperatures were dropping. Our decent was rapid and safe. Because of the loose materials on part of the mountain, we were able to walk almost effortlessly down the slopes, but it was still very exhausting.

Eventually, our team split into 3 groups again, with David, Nathalie, I and one porter making it to the bottom by 6pm. Andy, Lorena, Monica and a couple of other porters were close behind at 6:15pm. Bringing the whole Licancabur experience to an end was Edmond, Marc, Christian, and the other porters by 6:45.

Our dream was now a reality and a great achievement for all of us. As a team we had successfully summated a 6000 meter volcano and this is a memory that will never be taken away from any of us. We returned to the refuge exhausted, but satisfied.. Continued below...

Photos from the Nov. 3rd, 2002 Field Update

Reflections upon climbing

For many months, we had all studied the Licancabur. We had dreamed of the science we would be doing and the task that was before us. As we look back upon the climb, each expressed their view about what the climb meant.

Nathalie Cabrol—Making it to the summit was a great thing, knowing the team before and after the climb, I have seen some tremendous changes. Each of us has sacrificed so much to get here and I sincerely appreciate that. Being here with my husband was a great strength. The team has taken us as a whole. There is a saying that “lakes are the mirrors of the soul.” Now I know why the Incas have chosen this as a sacred mountain. I am a scientist and I have a lot of objectives to complete, so initially my vision was a bit different. But this mountain is very special.

I began to think about my grandmother. She died and was buried while I was here. She was with us while we climbed this mountain. Being with everyone to climb was great, and making it to the summit lake was wonderful.

With all the tasks that had to be done, I still could see that this place was special. Seeing all the activity happening at the lake; David taking samples, Andy setting floats, Lorena setting UV plates, and that for as much as the lake was the focus for this expedition, and now that we were leaving, I never took the opportunity to look back. My focus was on getting everyone back safe. For this experience it is tough. As a team it was great, but being the leader it was tough. Playing good guy/bad guy was hard, and I did not have all of the answers.

Throughout it all, everyone pulled together to make this happen safely, and for that I thank all of you.

Edmond Grin—We had excellent organization and training to make this climb. It was an excellent vision from Nathalie. I felt bad at first because we were going so slow, but Nathalie encouraged me saying that the team was 100% behind me. When we reached the summit, I was so surprised I was there. This mountain had been in my mind for months, after seeing all the pictures and finally being there was wonderful. I never doubted that I would reach the summit. It was a million steps, but every step was closer to the top. At mid camp, seeing the constellations at night, I felt as if I was on a boat some where.

Climbing Licancabur was a dream. The guide, Wilmer, was very helpful, and the Bolivian people are great. This volcano is very special. The geology of it, and the lake was very special. Marcus was like a brother to take care of me the way he did.

Andy Hock—There are different kinds of leaders. Nathalie was able to communicate the vision to the team. Marc was also an encouragement to see us all make it to the top.

The more you learn, the more you realize you don’t really know. I realized that by climbing these mountains, I was chasing something that they (the mountains) could not give me; distance from the psychological affects that my accident had on me.

The climb on Licancabur was part of a team effort that came together to make it to the top. I feel the outdoors is somewhat of a chapel to me and we all shared this together. I had the chance to stop and appreciate what we were doing.

We have to remember, that it is not the goal, but the journey. It was the team that made it.

David Fike—Initially helping prep for this expedition and helping with recommendations began to solidify this in my mind. As the time grew closer, it began grow more realistic in my mind, that we are really going. Everything on my checklist was gone except to climb Licancabur. Part of the reason for me being here was to climb Licancabur. The other reason for getting me to the top was the people I was with and that we all shared a common goal.

Lorena Escudero—When Guillermo first approached me about the expedition I said YES! Plus it was always a dream to climb a 6000 meter mountain, something I had never even attempted before. I was excited about the science, but frustrated at first about the communication barriers, coupled with me becoming sick and not knowing if I would be able to climb.

At Calama, when the doctor gave me the go ahead to climb, and when the day finally came I was ready. But at first my pack was too heavy and I thought I might not make it. At mid camp I decided to rest for the climb the next day. I new I was still a little sick, but I was motivated to finish the goal: the summit of Licancabur.

When I finally made it to the summit, I wanted to shout, scream and cry all at the same time. I wanted to spend more time at the summit lake, as well, but we had objectives to complete before it became late.

The descent was very difficult, but what a rich experience to share this with the people I came to know very well. I now have a close group of friends because of this experience. Marc was very helpful in helping me recover when I was sick. Everyone helped me to the top, Andy was a great help for me and Christian helped train me. I am very grateful for this experience.

Cristian Tambley—It is hard to say in just a few words. New people, and being here as team was great for me. This is a very tough mountain. It is not a simple thing just going to the top. It is very dangerous. Making it to the summit as a team is a very difficult task, but we did it. Not all of us are climbers. I started this expedition only 1 month before, and I had to train hard to get ready.

My first experience with Licancabur was a very frustrating one, and I wanted to complete this climb. I am very happy to make it to the summit. All of our delays and logistical problems we can learn from for the next expedition.

During the night at mid camp was really wonderful. The wind was blowing, the tent was shifting and you get the feeling that you might blow away! Everything outside was frozen.
Now that we have completed this, we have more experience to tell the others for future expeditions, and more time to explore.

Marcus Murbach—After the illnesses, I was pleased we all came together as a team. Our porters were very supportive, but were also inadequately prepared. I am extremely grateful for the people that helped us and their willingness to learn more about us. From the initial idea of the climb over time and the obstacles along the way, the peak at the end of the horizon was always there. We all made it to the top and came down without so much as an ankle sprain was wonderful. This group is very exceptional, each bringing a lot to form this team.

Brian Grigsby—I had never done anything like this before in my life. I had always been sheltered in my own world with my own things, and never exposed to anything like this. I knew from the beginning, that this would push me beyond my physical and mental capabilities, but you can never prepare for it. Once I made it to the summit, all of the people that made this climb possible came rushing through me. I didn’t think it would be as emotional as it was. The thought of my wife and children fueled me to the top, and all my friends and family were there with me when I made it. This was an experience that changed me as a person, and made me realize how important family is. Now I go back to them with a new and deep seeded appreciation for their love in my life, and for what is really important. Being here has removed all the barriers that prevented me from seeing the true nature of human life.